Listing your pet for sale on Petsguide is entirely FREE with a Standard Advert, which entitles you to 3 photos and a detailed description.

Categories of Pets for Sale on Petsguide include:- 

• Dogs for sale, puppies & accessories
• Cats for sale, kittens & accessories
• Fish for sale, aquariums & accessories
• Birds for sale, budgies, aviary & accessories
• Small Animals - rabbits, guinea pigs, mice, rats, ferrets, or other for sale
• Reptiles and other - Lizards, snakes, turtles, tortoise, farm animals, pet pigs, amphibians, insects, arachnids.. the list goes on!!!

To place an advert you must firstly create a Standard membership account.

If you breed pets or operate a pets club, then a Breeders Account will allow you to place a FREE advert in the Breeders Directory.

If you operate a Pets business, then promote your business nationally with a FREE Petsguide Dealer advert.

Not all dogs are created equal - some are born to lead while some gladly follows the commands of the pack leader. Consequently, not all dogs respond to training in the same manner - some gladly do their tasks and exercises without giving you, the owner, a hard time while others will test your temperament to its limits.

Hard-to-train dogs are by no means the lesser beings as compared to their more subservient counterparts. On the contrary, these dogs often possess several positive traits that interfere with your dog training sessions. Two of the qualities that get in the way of dog training the most are the animal's independence and dominance. Let's see how these qualities might jeopardize your dog training efforts.

Independence

Independence is by far the most commonly demonstrated trait by hard-to-train dogs. An independent dog can be viewed as a renegade who never needs to please anybody. While independent dogs unquestionably love their owners, their drive to please them is not as strong as those of other more compliant dogs. This trait often gives the owner or the trainer a more difficult time during their dog training sessions.

How could you tell that your dog is independent? Here are some telltale signs: .Independent dogs may exhibit a marked indifference to other people or animals. .They may not like being petted and disdainfully resents grooming. .They may prefer being alone. .They turn away when reprimanded.

However, independent dogs are not at all impossible to train. You just need to know what works with them and what doesn't so that you may get the best out of your dog training efforts. A word of caution - it is a big mistake to apply force in correcting the habits of your hard-to-train dog. Physical corrections such as hitting and yanking will only lead to passive resistance on your dog's part and make your dog training sessions close to impossible. Once your dog takes on this stance, it would be very difficult to make him or her obey your commands.

So, what is the best thing to do in training your independent dog? Utilize the "cookie power"! In other words, find out what rewards elicit a positive response and take advantage of it. With an adequate reward, your dog will surely let you have it your way!

Dominance

A dominant dog is one who explicitly shows you that he or she cannot be bossed around. While an independent dog will simply ignore your commands, a dominant dog will show you his or her discontent in being ordered around.

Dominant dogs are natural leaders. With these dogs, you need to prove yourself first before he or she recognizes your authority or else, your role will go further down the pack pecking order. Some signs of dominance may include the following: .Displays defensive behavior when guarding territory, foods or toys .Shows readiness to launch into a fight .Growls or snaps when they are not allowed to do what they want

Dominant dogs are trainable. Despite their fearsome and irritable nature, you can make them obey your commands during your dog training sessions and beyond. All you need to do is establish your role as the one who holds the alpha position. You need to establish your authority through reasonable actions and you will see that everything else will follow. Once the leadership issue is clearly established, your dog training sessions will go on smoothly without any troubles!

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Dog Training

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell
 

Until a very recent period, dog worms were thought to be of a spontaneous origin, brought about by the influence of heat upon decaying vegetable matter, and it was and still is freely asserted that puppies are born with dog worms inherited from the mother in some mysterious manner while still in uterus. This has been conclusively proven an error and in the minds of all scientists there is no question about dog worms springing from individual eggs and having a complete life history of their own.

The principal worm species with which dog owners have to contend are round worms and tape worms. The first named commonly infest puppies and consequently are most dreaded by breeders. In shape and size these worms resemble common angle worms, but in color are lighter, being almost white or only a pale pink.

In adult dogs these worms, when full grown, are from three to seven inches long. In puppies they are about half that length, and as thick as common white string. Round worms live in the small intestines, sometimes coiled in such masses as to obstruct the passage, and occasionally they wander into the stomach or are passed by the bowels.

It is easy to understand that when one dog in a kennel is infected with worms, millions of eggs will be passed with the feces. These are scattered all over the floors, bedding, feeding and drinking pans. They get on the dog's coat, are licked off and swallowed and in numbers of ways gain entrance to the digestive tracts of other dogs, where they soon hatch out and in ten days are fully developed.

This rapid development account for the popular belief that puppies are born with worms, for breeders who have held post-mortems on puppies scarcely ten days old and have found in their stomachs fully developed round worms could account for their presence in no other way. They overlooked the fact that the prospective mother, confined in a kennel infested with worms, would get these eggs attached to her coat, belly and breasts, and the young, as soon as born, would take these eggs into their stomachs with the first mouthfuls of milk.

Symptoms Of Dog Worms Attack

Dog worms are responsible for so much sickness and so many symptoms that it is practically impossible to mention all of them, but their presence can safely be suspected in all dogs which have not been recently treated for them, as well as in cases where the patient is run down, unthrifty and out of sorts.

Other symptoms are a hot, dry nose, weak, watery eyes, pale lips and gums, foul breath, mean hacking cough and a red, scurfy, pimply or irritated condition of the skin and harsh, dry, staring coat that is constantly being shed.

Wormy dogs sometimes have a depraved appetite and will eat dirt and rubbish. Some days they are ravenously hungry, the next day they will not eat at all; their sleep is disturbed by dreams and intestinal rumbling, the urine is high colored and frequently passed, bowels irregular, stomach easily unsettled, watery mucus is frequently vomited and the mouth is hot, sticky and full of ropy saliva.

Puppies which are full of worms bloat easily and are pot-bellied. After feeding their stomachs distend disproportionately to the amount of food consumed. Their bodies are also subject to scaly eruptions and their bowels to colicky pains; they do not grow as rapidly as healthy puppies should and instead of playing with each other they curl up and sleep hour after hour; they get thinner, weaker and more lifeless from day to day and if they do not waste away or die in fits and convulsions with frothing at the mouth and champing of the jaws, grow up coarse-jointed, rickety and misshapen. Puppies with worms are also liable to paralysis of their rear limbs and on removal of the worms the puppies regain control of the affected parts.

A wormy dog is usually an unhealthy and unhappy dog who leads a miserable life. It could even be deadly, especially so for young puppies. Bring your dog to a veterinarian if you are unsure. Your dog will certainly thank you for that.

Moses Chia is the webmaster of DogsObedienceTraining.com. He provides more helpful information on dog obedience training, dog training book reviews and dog illness symptoms interpretation that you can learn in the comfort of your home on his website. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Moses_Chia
 

All puppies will bite and chew your body parts or clothing. It is just what puppies do. Their sharp, needle-like teeth can cause quite a lot of pain, and clothing can easily be damaged. It makes sense that we want to teach puppy that this is unacceptable as quickly as possible. What's more, if puppies are allowed to continue this behavior, by the time they are adolescents or adults they could cause some serious damage!

That's not to say that having a puppy's mouth on you is necessarily a 'bad' thing. Puppies need to learn what we call 'bite inhibition', which is a soft, inhibited bite. Why? All dogs will bite under certain circumstances, particularly if taken by surprise. The dog that learns bite inhibition can bite without causing any real damage.

First, some theory. Don't worry, it's not long and boring!

If you have read my earlier article "Secrets of Dog Training Professionals - Operant Conditioning" then you will be familiar with the term 'Negative Punishment'. Sounds awful, doesn't it? But don't worry, Negative Punishment simply means that behavior is decreased because we took something away as a consequence of that behavior.

A 'time out' is a Negative Punisher when the target behavior is decreased. Time outs are one of the most humane and pet-friendly punishments we can use, when used with thought and care.

Puppies bite at our hands and clothing because that is the way that puppies like to play. It is fun, and they enjoy our attention. They particularly like it if we try to fight them off of us. Have you ever seen two or more puppies playing? They like to fight each other with their mouths and paws.

Normally, other puppies teach our puppy not to bite too hard by squealing in pain. When we take our puppy from the litter, these other puppies aren't around to teach proper bite inhibition any more. Some people advise trying to emulate a 'puppy squeal' to discourage biting too hard.

I don't know why, but people just don't seem to be very convincing with their squeals, so I don't recommend it as a training technique. What's more, some puppies seem to enjoy it when their human squeals and will get more excited, resulting in more biting. This is obviously not what we want puppy to do! If you can squeal and your puppy immediately stops biting, then this is an acceptable technique. Monitor the behavior long-term, though, to make sure biting too hard is decreasing.

A different, yet highly effective aproach is to say 'ouch' in a neutral tone of voice (not loud, not high-pitched and not angry) then walk out of the room, shutting the door behind you for 30 seconds. This marks the exact behavior you are trying to punish, then gives a time-out as a consequence.

It may take puppy a little while to figure out the link between his biting and the time-out, but the marker will make it clearer. It is important to say 'ouch' in a neutral tone of voice, and say it exactly at the moment that puppy bites too hard.

Notice that I said "exactly at the moment that puppy bites too hard"? We don't want to discourage young puppies from biting altogether, this would be bite prohibition. We want to teach puppies to inhibit their bite.

Time-outs should not be excessive. A long time-out can be stressful and lead to other unwanted behaviors. 30 seconds is more than enough and seems to be quite effective. Don't look back at puppy or try to push puppy away when you say 'ouch'. Simply get up and leave, closing the door behind you.

If you have family or friends in the room then it might be easier to lead puppy out of the room and shut him out for his time-out. However, this doesn't seem to be as effective to me.

Remember, it is only punishment if the behavior decreases. Continuing with a punishment which is unclear or ineffective is a waste of time and borders on abuse (although, it would be hard to do damage with a 30 second time-out). Consider your timing, consistency and whether or not there is anyone else in puppy's life who is not following through with this protocol consistently. It is important that you explain the rules to anyone who plays with puppy.

If all else fails, seek professional advice. Most vet clinics are now offering puppy kinder classes using humane and pet-friendly techniques.

Aidan Bindoff is Editor of http://www.positivepetzine.com your helpful on-line resource for free positive dog training advice that works fast and that anyone can apply today!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aidan_Bindoff 

Raising rabbits as pets can be quite a bit of work, the same as with any pet. They are good natured, gentle pets, but somewhat aloof. They do get scared very easily, as is part of their nature. The more time you spend with them the more responsive they are to you, and will respond to their name. They do need some gentle handling in the beginning but become part of the family within weeks. Rabbits can live up to 10 years.

When you first bring your rabbit home try to keep things as quiet as possible. They are skittish and do not like change, so will need to be gently introduced to their environment so they can become accustomed to it and you. Each new noise will be a source of fear. During the first few days after bringing them home try not to touch them much. Sit on the floor and let them come check you out instead of approaching them. Try to keep it quiet during those first days. Do not introduce to other pets in the home right away. When you do, this needs to be done slowly as well.

They will need to get used to your touch. To pick them up properly, use one hand to pick them up by the back of their neck. Use your other hand to hold their paws close to their body while holding them close to you. This will keep you from getting scratched by the back paws and they will feel safe. You will also want to train them to be held for grooming. Hold them on their back as you would an infant for a short amount of time each day.

Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors. If you keep them outside you will need a fence in the yard. This is to keep them inside and to keep predators outside. You will need to keep a careful watch as rabbits can dig themselves out under the fence. Keep the fence maintained as predators will smell them and attempt to gain access. When you are not with them they will need to be kept in a habitat or cage. The size should be five times the size of the rabbit. Put in hay for them to sleep upon.

If your rabbits are kept indoors you may allow them to roam but they will still need a private space just for them. You can buy enclosures specially made for rabbits. A cage is not a home as it just doesn't provide enough space. Electrical cords will need to be taped to the wall. Rabbits will chew them. Socket covers will work to keep them away from those. If you have heat registers in the floor you will need to cover them in whatever room you let your pets roam in. Their feet can become stuck in them and cause them to injure themselves.

Rabbits can be litter trained. It will take just a few weeks for them to get used to it. You will need to watch them carefully at first and each time they appear ready to relieve themselves take them to the litter box. To keep them from chewing the things you hold as valuable they will need chew toys, lots of them. Your pets will also enjoy pushing a ball around, if it makes noise even better. They are susceptible to fleas, mites and ticks. Colds can be a problem as well. Consult your vet on the best way to handle these.

Water is important. It should be clean and cool. If they do not get enough water it can cause health issues. A sipper bottle is ideal. If it is a bowl, use one made from metal or ceramic. These do not scratch easily. The rabbits nails would scratch a plastic bowl. Keep that bowl clean any thing in the home can end up in the bowl. They can also turn them over. Wet food or hay can turn to mold. For these reasons the sipper bottle is the better option.

Your rabbits should be fed mainly pellets. Be consistent with the food they are fed as they do not like or adapt to change in diet well. Vegetables are necessary as well. Serve one to two cups of them for every five pounds of your rabbits weight. Clean them thoroughly to rid them of chemicals and pesticides. There should be three varieties of vegetables each day. Do not introduce more than one new vegetable a day. This will give them time to get used to it and you a chance to see how they respond to it.

Some foods to avoid are corn, potatoes, iceberg lettuce and cauliflower. Carrots should be considered a treat only. Treats will be normally be a small piece of fruit. A treat is good as a training tool. Don't give them frequently because your pet may not want to eat anything else. Consult your pet shop or your vet about what is best for the rabbit you have. These are just the basics to care for rabbits as pets

If you are looking for more information on pet rabbits and cages then be sure to check out Tim W Bell's site. Tim W Bell has been involved in small animal business for 20 years. Stop by to see our multi level cages to see if they work for your home.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_W_Bell  

How Wild Birds Stay Warm in the Winter and You Can Help

Winter poses several challenges for our birds, especially when the temperatures drop below freezing. We don't often think about or wonder how our birds survive the colds nights, we just know they do or at least we hope they do. Even those moments in the deep South, Desert regions or the Pacific coast where a cold snap or several inches or feet of snow fall, can effect a bird population. Winter brings extreme cold temperature, strong winds, driving snow and rain.

Nights seem to last forever. 16 hours of darkness and in some locations more. That doesn't leave a whole lot of time to forage and feed. Yet, many birds must at least triple their normal intake to survive and do it in half the time. Each winter we lose many of our feathered friends to the rigors of winter. It's how "Nature" works. Survival of the fittest, Passing on the strongest genes.

Birds have many adaptations to survive the extremes of winter. Some birds migrate, some adjust their diet habits. Birds such as chickadees and American goldfinchs add feathers in preparation for winter. The typical chickadee or goldfinch is covered with about 1,000 feathers during the summer. By the time winter arrives, they have doubled that count to more than 2,000 feathers. For a small bird, that can be some serious added bulk and weight.

During cold, windy or just a plain nasty day, birds will fluff up their feathers. By doing this, they create dead air pockets, much like insulation or a double pain window. This reduces the heat loss by up to 30%. Extra feathers and fluffing isn't enough to make it through a cold winter day yet alone the cold, long dark nights.

Birds also have a unique circulatory system in there legs to help them cope with cold temperatures.

Pay attention now.

Warm arterial blood from the birds interior, which is on its way to the bird's legs and feet, passes through a network of small passages that runs alongside the cold returning blood veins from the feet. The network of vessels acts like a radiator and exchanges the heat from the out-going warm arterial blood to the cold venous blood. By warming up the old blood, no heat is lost and the feet receive a constant supply of life sustaining blood. This is also why water fowl can swim in near freezing water and not get cold.

Fat is another important winter weather survival adaption. Fat acts as an insulator in addition to an energy reserve. During the day, birds eat to build up fat reserves. On average, a bird can put on up to 15% to 20% of body weight in fat before it becomes to heavy to fly.

Now remember, days are shorter and cold. Birds have to eat enough to survive the day as well as replenish the fat reserves. The smaller he bird, the higher the metabolism (more energy burned). Birds don't have brown fat, the kind we have, instead they have white fat. White fat is a high-energy fuel used to power the bird's warming process.

Shivering

Thermogenesis is a fancy name for shivering. You can't really see it, but all birds shiver in the cold of winter. From the largest of birds like eagles and water fowl to the smallest of birds like hummingbirds. They all shiver to maintain their core body temperature at about 106 to 109 degrees, depending on the species.

Shivering produces heat five times their normal basel rate and can maintain  a normal body temperature for six to eight hours at  temperatures dropping to minus 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Without shivering the bird's body temperature would quickly drop and the bird would become hypothermic.

At night, birds such as the little chickadee take shivering, or lack of one step further. To conserve heat and energy, chickadees can lower their body temperature by interrupting their shivering. These periods of inactivity allow the bird's body temperature to slowly cool, until it drops about 10 or 12 degrees. At this point, the bird enters a state of unconsciousness called torpor. Respiration and heart rate will also drop during this period.

Energizing

As morning nears, the periods of inactivity decrease until the bird is constantly shivering once again. The body temperature is back in the normal range and the bird regains consciousness. The results of this torpid state is an energy  savings of up to 20% during a typical winter night.

Conserving energy is very important when you consider how little fat a bird can store. Based on a daily increase of body fat of 15% a typical chickadee has about 16 to 24 hours of fat or energy reserves to carry it through a winter night. That my friend is why it is imperative that a bird gets out early in the morning and stays out late to find food regardless of the weather.

If it doesn't replenish its fat reserves every day, the bird will not have enough energy to make it through the next night and will die. There was a time when the natural world provided food for most wildlife. With the constant shrinking of habitat, winter protection and food supplies continue to shrink.

You can increase the odds for birds and some mammals by simply filling your feeders with their favorite food and offering suet. Fresh water is important as well. When birds are required to eat icy cold snow, it takes valuable energy to warm that snow as it passes through.

Next time you trudge out into the cold or even the warmth to fill your feeders, think of this, "Nature" has provided birds with some wonderful tools to survive, whether it is migration, blood circulation, change of diet, added feathers, or shivering.

Birds are truly a wonder for us to enjoy. In one way, it is unfortunate that many birds now need our help to survive. Yet, look at the education and joy we get out of caring and feeding our birds.

Ron Patterson is a Wildlife Habitat Naturalist, Master Naturalist, Michigan Certified Nurseryman and Baackyard birding expert.

With more than 40 years experience, Ron can help you 'Garden for Wildlife' and enjoy wild birds more.

You can sign up for his FREE newsletter at: http://www.gardening-for-wildlife.com/newsletter.html

Or go to his new and growing website at: http://www.gardening-for-wildlife.com/index.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ronald_F._Patterson
 

For some people, it's just open, pour, and drink. Wine is a great drink but there is much more to it than that.

Wine goes very well with food. In fact in many wine drinking countries, the idea of drinking wine without food is unheard of! Most wines goes very well with a variety of foods, and the old rules or red with meat and white with fish can be thrown out the window. You can drink whichever wine you'd like with whatever food as long as you enjoy it.

Now in general, bigger wines, like beefy reds, go better with bigger and richer foods, like prime rib. And smaller and more delicate wines, typically whites, go better with fish and poultry. However there are plenty of red wines that go well with fish and poultry and plenty of whites that work with red meats. Worst case, if they don't go together well, eat your food then drink your wine!

Wines go well with food from the same region. French foods go well with French wines for example. This is no hard and fast rule, because there are no rules other than your enjoyment.

So how can you tell if it's a good or great wine? I you like it, it is good. If you like it a lot, it is great. That's all there is too it! There is no room for snobbery or anything else, just your taste. After all, it's only fermented grape juice. Preparing a goldfish aquarium requires time as well as labor and patience. But goldfish are relatively easy to handle compared to some other tropical fish if one knows exactly how to take care of them. For a beginner goldfish care can be a superb learning experience. Here are ten very simple yet effective goldfish care tips for beginners.

1. First of all buy a comparatively large goldfish aquarium. Goldfish require a lot of space for swimming and playing. The traditional bowl with a narrow top not at all suitable for healthy growth of goldfish. So two goldfish is ideal for a 2-gallon fish tank. More than this number will make the tank overcrowded which will hamper the health of the fish.

2. For proper maintenance of your fish tank you must buy a filter with an air pump. Goldfish require high amount of oxygen unlike lot of other tropical fish.

3. Don't compromise on accessories of the aquarium. For example, Gravel placed at the bottom is good. It will be a safe place for the growth of useful bacteria and which can also bring down the ammonia level, which is harmful. Important - do not make the gravel pieces very small, the fish may attempt to eat!

4. It is always advisable to go for a "fish-less cycle" before putting fish into the tank water. A fish-less cycle includes setting up the aquarium, running filter for one or two days without fish, bringing in ammonia etc can be of great help once you finally add fish. The new home of goldfish should be perfect before you bring home the fish from pet store.

5. Feeding the goldfish properly is another crucial aspect of goldfish care. Feed them the proper food in proper quantity. Goldfish flakes can be a great option as they contain all necessary nutrients that are required for healthy growth of goldfish. Apart from flakes you can also provide small quantities of hard boiled romaine lettuce as well as cooked peas.

6. Never ever over-feed your goldfish. Goldfish do not know anything about their dietary needs. They will eat whatever you provide within a few minutes. They can eat until they drop dead. Moreover, you must also remove any food residue left in the water or it may rot and give rise to bacteria formation.

7. Check your fish tank water on regular basis. After you add fish n added you must regularly check the pH and ammonia, levels. Ammonia can be very dangerous. So the level must be 0 ppm. There are test strips available which can test all of these.

8. Another important thing is to use an aquarium thermometer. Generally, unlike other tropical fish, goldfish prefer cold water. So they need temperature which is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. But this does not mean that the waters should be too cold which may make the goldfish sluggish.

9. Regularly change your fish tank water. If you have a 1- or 2-gallon goldfish aquarium it will do if you replace around 25-30% of the water once a week. Generally 100% water changes are not good always as it can remove healthy bacteria in the process.

10. Learn whatever you can regard various goldfish diseases and how to combat them. Some common ailments associated with goldfish are Ich, velvet, "pop eye", constipation etc which have the potential to kill your goldfish if left untreated.

Having goldfish as pets can be a very pleasurable and rewarding experience. So a little research on how to care for these creatures is not big task at all!ice. Much of it is very good fermented grape juice, but that's all it is.

Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. His famous digital book, "Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish", offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, "Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed".

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chintamani_Abhyankar
 

Cat lovers who own cats in their houses usually look after their grooming, feeding, or the training part. However, understanding the metabolism of the cats is equally imperative, because it enables pet owners to know the temperament, nature and the habits of their cats. Metabolism means ongoing of the physical as well as chemical changes, which take place in the cat's body.

The metabolism of a healthy cat can be found by checking the glucose level in its blood. It has to be between 80 to 120 mg/dL (milligrams per deciliter).

Hence, cats need to take rest and tend to sleep a lot. Their sleeping durations are usually of 12 to 16 hours. They do not sleep continuously for these many hours, instead they take short naps which together sum to 12 hours. It helps them to conserve energy. Some cats sleep for much longer duration for about 20 hours in 24 hours. Perhaps, this might be the reason why people refer to individuals who sleep more often as "having a cat nap".

Factors Of Metabolism:

Body temperature is the main factor of the cat's metabolism. The layer of fat beneath the skin protects it from harsh winters. A body temperature of a typically healthy cat is within 38 to 39 degree Celsius. A cat is assumed feverish if its body temperature is equal to 39.5 degree Celsius or greater than that. Moreover, if the body temperature of the cat is lower than 37.5 degree Celsius, that cat is hypothermic.

Heart beat of the cat ranges from 140 -220 beats/minute. If the cat is on the hunting spree, its heart rate becomes higher. Whereas, the heart beat of the cat in resting position is within 150-180 beats/minute.

Due to their frequent nocturnal nature, they often enter a stage of greater hyperactivity and liveliness. It happens mostly in the evening times and, hence pet lovers refer to this phase as happy hour or mad hour or evening craziness.

The temperament of the cats varies and depends on their breeds. Short and haired cats are usually skinnier and, hence more energetic, whereas long haired cats and taller cats are heavier and inactive.

Overview:

Cats are carnivorous, so they have this unique capacity to metabolize protein in meat to sugar and carbohydrate. Most people feed cats with dry feline diet, which is widely available in the market. Nevertheless, cat's metabolism is such that, it converts the dry diet into carbohydrate, which is not good for their health.

Give them high protein diet such as meat-based food to make them active and healthy. One of the common problems faced by many cat owners is, their cats eat a lot sometimes and at times, they do not eat at all. In such case, people need to know that, it is just natural because cat's metabolism is equipped to "treat and crisis" cycle.

Therefore, if felines go without food for many days, people need not have to worry. Simply wait and the cats will start eating, when hungry. Hence, this is all about cat metabolism.

Go to Cat and Kitten Zone to get your free ebook about Cats and Kittens at Cats Cat and Kitten Zone also has information on Kittens, Cat Supplies and a Cat and Kitten Forum where you can connect with others who love cats and kittens. You can Find Cat and Kitten Zone at http://www.catandkittenzone.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Martin_Marks
 

The following technique can be used to introduce a new kitten or cat to your other cat(s). I've been involved in pet rescue most of my life and this technique worked successfully every time. Over the years I've had to make a few modifications when introducing older males or feral cats, but in most cases this will work exactly as outlined. It's assumed your pet is neutered and the new pet is either neutered or less than six months old.

If you have a choice you may want to follow a "wives tale" recommendation and pick a young new cat that is the opposite sex of your pet. For example if you have a neutered male select a female kitten or young female. If you have an older female, select a young male kitten. Many people believe these combinations are the best choices to insure a compatible match. There is some biological support for this argument, but I've merged many same sex, same age cats and it's always been successful.

1. Before you bring a new kitten or cat home, make sure it is free of communicable diseases-Feline Leukemia, Distemper, Rabies, worms, and fleas. Most people avoid adopting a cat that has been exposed to Feline Aides, but there's a mixed jury on how Feline Aides is spread. You may want to read about this topic and form your own opinion before you consider merging a cat exposed to FIV with a healthy cat.

2. While the cats are still in separate locations feed them both a large meal. For example, give both cats a meal that would be comparable to our thanksgiving dinner; choices include their favorite canned food, sardines, tuna, or chicken. Give them at least an extra half serving. You may also want to give a little natural herb relaxant such as "Rescue Remedy".

3. Place the new cat or kitten inside a cat carrier approximately a half hour after the cats finish eating their large meal. Have a friend bring the new cat or kitten into your house and place the carrier in the middle of a living room floor-make sure there is a place where the new cat will be able to hide once it's released from the cage (i.e. a sofa, chair, etc.). If you can't find a friend, to bring in the carrier you can do this yourself, but you must ignore the new cat at all times.

4. Let your cats smell and hiss at each other with your cat running loose in your house and the new cat safe inside the carrier. Since both cats are full and relaxed-it may take 20-30 minutes before the cats notice each other.

5. One hour after you bring the new cat inside open the carrier door, but ignore both cats. Let the new cat come out as it feels ready, this may take up to 30 minutes. The cats may continue to hiss and scream at each other, but usually it's pretty minimal. Most often the new cat will look for a safe place to hide such as under a sofa or chair. If the new cat runs to you, ignore it.

6. For the next 3-4 days, you must ignore the new cat. Allow your cats to scream and hiss at each other as much as they need to. This let's your current pet and the new pet establish their own pecking order. The only time you want to interfere would be if the cats got in a bad fight. If this occurs throw a large amount of cold water on both cats, and start the process over. (One time I had to merge two older sickly male cats. They had both been "Tom" cats for years. After this one hour merger technique they got in a horrible fight. I broke up the fight with water, got a large dog crate and for two days I rotated which cat was in the cage and which cat got to be loose. At the end of two days, these cats got along great.)

A final thought, you may want to start the introduction at a time when you can be home for a few days. For example, if you work Monday through Friday, you may want to merge the cats on Friday night so you can observe them over the weekend.

Kate Garvey is a former Vet Tech and animal rights supporter. She teaches Sound Healing Workshops (thoughout the US) and treats clients by appointment in the San Diego area. For more information on how you can use sound for optimal health please visit http://www.InstituteOfSoundHealing.com

Kate is also a freelance writer, published author, and the author of several books; "Aging, Death and Euthanasia-A Guide for People with Pets", "Summer Pet Care Tips", and "The Low Risk Guide for Real Estate Investment."

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kate_Garvey